“Paraiba Perfection”: Stars Align to Create the Award-Winning Paraiba Necklace
Platinum “Paraíba Perfection” pendant featuring a 3.84 ct. Mozambique Paraíba Tourmaline and a 7.06 ct. Mozambique Paraíba Tourmaline accented by Alexandrites (1.11 ctw.) and Diamonds. Photo: Jeff Mason
In the world of fine jewelry, some pieces are defined by more than their beauty—they stand as benchmarks of craftsmanship and innovation. Such is the case with Jeffrey Bilgore’s award-winning Paraiba tourmaline pendant necklace. From sourcing rare gemstones to achieving a design that harmonizes natural beauty and expert craftsmanship, this piece epitomizes Bilgore’s decades of experience and dedication to excellence.
A Lifelong Dedication to Design
Jeffrey Bilgore’s career in fine jewelry spans decades and is rooted in a unique blend of artistic passion and technical expertise. Influenced by a childhood surrounded by art and gemstones, Bilgore accredits his success to the industry network he has curated over 45 years. From his initial introduction to the industry, apprenticing with gemstone cutters on 47th Street, Bilgore pursued his passion in New York City as a gemologist for American Gemological Laboratories. “It was like working in King Solomon’s mines, I learned early on that a truly exceptional gemstone has a story to tell,” he explains. “It’s not just about carat weight or clarity—it’s about how the stone interacts with light and the emotions it evokes.”
His professional journey continued as the head buyer for Henry Birks USA’s 55 fine couture jewelry stores, where he honed his skills in sourcing exceptional stones. Years later, his eye for detail led him to Oscar Heyman & Brothers, where he would refine his understanding of design, craftsmanship, and how they translate to retail market tastes. These experiences equipped Jeffrey with the ability to evaluate gemstones not just for their rarity but also how they inspire exceptional designs. Today, he operates his own jewelry design business, creating unique, one-of-a-kind pieces of wearable art.
The Pendant Necklace: A Study in Balance and Harmony
Jeffrey’s platinum pendant necklace, aptly dubbed “Paraiba Perfection,” won the Platinum Guild Award for Classic Jewelry in the 2024 American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) Spectrum Awards. The centerpiece of this necklace is a stunning combination of rare gemstones, sourced in collaboration with Cuprian & Co.
At its heart are two Paraiba tourmalines: a 7.06 carat pear-shaped green Paraiba and a 3.84 carat neon blue oval Paraiba. These stones create a vivid color story that is as striking as it is harmonious. They are accentuated with Brazilian Alexandrites, chosen for their brilliance and ability to complement the central stones’ colors. The Alexandrite’s’ dynamic color-changing properties—from green to reddish-purple—add a sense of movement to the design, while the diamond border provides a classic touch of refinement.
Bilgore’s design prioritizes balance and wearability. The platinum setting ensures durability while maintaining a sleek, modern aesthetic. Weighing just over an ounce, the necklace feels substantial without being cumbersome, and its carefully crafted proportions ensure it sits comfortably on the wearer.
“The design was guided by the stones themselves,” Jeffrey explains. “The pear-shaped green Paraiba represented the earth, while the neon blue oval evoked the sky. The alexandrite’s and diamonds brought the entire composition together, creating a sense of natural harmony.”
Like many artists, Bilgore draws inspiration from nature. “There are certain shapes and curves that repeat themselves in nature. It’s something innate within us that we don’t fully understand but are drawn to all the same. That visceral, subconscious connection is what attracts one to a piece.”
Gemstones That Define a Legacy: Mozambique Paraiba Tourmalines
The gemstones at the heart of this masterpiece were sourced from Cuprian & Co., a mine-to-market leader for responsibly-mined Paraiba tourmalines with vivid hues.
“Truthfully, when I first encountered Paraiba in the early ’90s, I wasn’t quite sure what to make of it,” Bilgore admits. “It’s Windex-blue color was unlike anything I had seen in nature before.” Years later, Bilgore had a chance encounter with this same color in nature at the Smithsonian Museum. During a private viewing of the Papillon butterfly collection, Jeffrey saw the same Windex-blue color re-emerge in the wings of one of the rarest of butterflies on display. This ignited his fascination with the gemstone.
Paraiba tourmalines are among the rarest gemstones in the world, formed under unique geological conditions that imbue them with a mesmerizing neon brilliance. Mozambique Paraiba tourmaline offers a broader palette, from soft pastels to vibrant greens and blues.
“The color range from Mozambique Paraiba is unmatched,” Bilgore says. “It reflects the full spectrum of nature—greens of grass and trees, blues of the sea and sky. The material is generally cleaner than Brazilian stones, and while Brazil produces the most vivid hues, Mozambique provides a more balanced and natural aesthetic.”
As Brazil’s Paraiba reserves become scarce, Paraiba tourmaline from Mozambique offers an accessible option, allowing designers to explore bold creative possibilities without compromising quality. “Magnificent as the colors of a peacock’s tail, these gemstones stand out,” notes Jeffrey. “They inspire heirlooms—pieces meant to last for generations.”
Recognition at the AGTA Spectrum Awards
The AGTA Spectrum Awards are a prestigious competition celebrating excellence in gemstone and jewelry design. Jaimeen Shah, 2nd Vice President of the AGTA notes: “One of the biggest reasons behind the success of this competition is the quality of the judges. Spectrum judges come from all aspects of the jewelry trade and are tremendously well-versed in color, which is a unique and important distinction from any other jewelry award program.”
Bilgore’s “Paraiba Perfection” earned him one of his many AGTA Spectrum Awards. Over his career, he has won 30 awards across 21 years, including multiple first-place honors.
“The AGTA Spectrum Awards are an opportunity to push boundaries,” Bilgore says. “Each piece I design is crafted to the highest standard of beauty, balance, and technical precision. Only when I believe they represent the best of these elements do I put forward a piece for consideration. Trying to design an AGTA Spectrum winner is like making a painting for the National Gallery of Art. As an artist, one creates for the process, for the experience of their own and the observer. Recognition is always a humbling reward.”
This recent award underscores not only Bilgore’s talent as a designer but also the exceptional quality of the materials he works with. His collaboration with Cuprian & Co. ensured the gemstones were of the highest caliber, forming the foundation for this extraordinary piece.
A Lasting Legacy in Gemstones
For Bilgore, jewelry is more than adornment—it’s a lasting legacy. “Everything else fades—cars, even homes—but gemstones endure,” he says. “They are treasures that can be passed down through generations, each piece carrying the stories and memories of those who owned it.”
For a stone to make its way from the miner who extracted it, to the lapidary artist, to the designer, to the jeweler, and finally to the end retail customer, all the stars have to align. Each stage in this process adds to the piece’s inherent value and its connection to humanity’s shared appreciation of nature’s beauty.
This creation is more than a piece of jewelry—it’s a testament to what can be achieved when artistry, expertise, and nature come together. As Bilgore reflects, “When everything aligns, the result is something truly extraordinary—something that stands the test of time.”